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What’s the Point of Puppyhood?
Puppies, like children, are growing psychologically and emotionally, as well
as physically.  What they learn when they are young will, in large part,
become a part of their adult behavior.  For this reason, the importance of
early experiences and early learning cannot be emphasized too much.

Dogs, in a manner similar to people, pass through distinct phases in their
psychological development.  At these times the dog is uniquely sensitive to
certain influences and experiences, and for this reason psychologists refer to
these phases as critical periods.  Understanding the phases, and the impact
of certain experiences during those phases, will help you to handle behavior
during those periods, and  will allow you to shape your puppy into the
companion you desire.  

Puppy Toddler Period, or Canine Socialization Period
(3 - 6 weeks of age)   This phase is the point at which the puppies realize
the world is larger than the end of their noses!  They begin crawling around
and exploring their environment.  Vision and hearing is becoming more
developed so they can learn about their environment and their litter mates.
They begin the process of learning to behave like dogs.  By observing mom
and playing with litter mates they try out different body postures and
behaviors, and gradually learn what effect each of these has on others. They
attempt howling and barking and wrestling, they learn what happens when
they bite another puppy, and learn what it is like when bitten.  This is the
basis for social relationships in the pack. Around five weeks of age, just
about the time weaning begins, the mother teaches her puppies to be
submissive to her as the pack leader.  When necessary, she will growl or
snap at them as a form of discipline.   So this is a critical period for learning
to accept discipline from a pack leader.  If this phase is shortchanged, and
the pup is removed from the litter too early, it’s later training will be much
more difficult.  They may even be aggressive with other dogs because it
never learned the rules! This is the main reason that 7 weeks is considered
the absolute minimum age to remove a pup from it’s mom and litter mates.

Human Socialization Period (7 - 12 weeks of age) In this period
the puppy is a learning machine.  Everything they experience will be later
integrated into their personality.  This period, more than any other is one
where every event has a lasting impact.  Every experience is a learning
experience, whether it is intended that way or not, so good habits can be
learned or bad habits established. Your puppy will begin to expand it’s idea
of ‘pack’ from it’s mom and litter mates, to the humans around her as well.
Your puppy has just finished learning how to respect Mom, the canine pack
leader. Now that she has left mom, she will need YOU to be the new pack
leader.   The pup will be very anxious to please you, and will learn what
rules you want him to follow.  This is the best time to do that!  Things that
are cute in a puppy, like growling, biting and jumping, are not so cute in an
adult. NOW is the time to establish the ground rules regarding those
behaviors.  Corrections should be consistent and non-punitive; correction
does not mean punishment. If a pup is chewing on something
unauthorized, take it away and substitute an appropriate choice, rather than
yelling at her.  This is also the period in which your puppy will learn to find
new situations either scary or exciting.  How he learns to feel about new
situations depends upon him being exposed to them many, many times, but
in a secure environment.  Taking your puppy lots of places, meeting lots of
different kinds of people, and making it FUN, will insure that he is flexible
and happy in meeting new situations in the future.  This is a challenge, as
full immunization against Parvo virus is not possible until 16 weeks of age.
Until she is fully immunized, you should try to expose your pup to as many
new situations and people as possible, while avoiding places where lots of
dogs frequent. Playgrounds and shopping centers that do not have pet
stores are a good start.  Frequent grooming sessions at this point will insure
that your pup learns to allow brushing, ear cleaning and nail trimming
without a struggle.

What should I do in this stage?
Expose your puppy to new situations and people
Be consistent in correcting undesirable behaviors
Groom frequently (hair, nails, ears) so it becomes routine
Provide stimulating and fun toys
Teach 'sit'
Begin working on the 'come' command by playing a
game where people take turns calling the pup,
and the pups gets a treat when she arrives

First Fear Imprint Period (8 - 11 weeks of age) This period partly
overlaps the
Human Socialization Period. During this time, any scary
or  painful experiences will leave a greater impression than if it had occurred
at another time.  Trips to the veterinarian, if frightening, can cause a
lifelong fear of vets, for example.  A scary car ride can cause anxiety tied to
cars that can be very difficult to reverse. If such events are necessary, and of
course they are, try to make them as fun as possible, with lots of playing
and treats.

What should I do in this stage?
Make new experiences fun...lots of play and treats
If possible, avoid situations that might be scary

Seniority Classification Period, or Ranking Period (12-
16 weeks of age) During this period your puppy will begin to challenge your
authority, to see if you will maintain your position as leader of your pack.  
In a wild pack, this is necessary, as sometimes old pack leaders need to be
replaced!  You do not want your puppy to get the idea he can replace you as
pack leader, however, so you need to show the dog, in her language, who
is pack leader. Ways to display dominance to your dog are:

Make sure you eat first, in front of your dog, before feeding her.  Pack
leaders eat first!

Make your dog sit before going through any door, then you go through
first.   
Again, pack leaders go first!        

Make your dog sit for everything!  Sit for a treat, sit to be petted, sit to be
given a toy, sit for no reason.  This reinforces that what you say, goes.

Do ‘puppy-pushups’ at random times, just to show he needs to follow your
wishes.  This consists of the commands ‘Sit, down, sit, down’ several times
in succession.

Allow him on the furniture only at your invitation (if you allow him on the
furniture at all) and never allow him to sleep on your bed.  In a wild
pack, the pack leader gets the highest and most coveted resting place!

Try a day or 2 of tethering.  This consists of attaching your dog’s leash to
your belt, so she has to go everywhere and do everything with you.  Do
not talk to your dog or pet her, just require her to move with you as you
go about your activities.  This is especially effective if a pup is trying to
dominate a child.  Having the pup tethered to the child tells him in no
uncertain terms who gets to make the decisions!

Behaviors such as nipping and grabbing the leash usually reach a peak in
this period, and are attempts at dominance.  They should not be tolerated,
and games which encourage them should be avoided, or strictly regulated.  
Tug of war is acceptable ONLY if you initiate the game AND end it by
winning EVERY TIME.  Children should not be allowed to play tug of war as
it cannot be assured they will do this, and you do not want the puppy
getting the idea they can dominate a child.  The pups mouth should not
ever be allowed to touch any part of a person’s body.  A command such as
‘No bite’ or ‘No’ should be chosen and consistently applied.

What should I do in this stage?
Establish Dominance (see above)
Lots of exercise
Enroll in puppy training classes
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 months of age) This stage is the
beginning of independence.  Even puppies that have always stayed close to
their owners, or have come when called, will fail to do so. It is not
uncommon for them to even bolt in an opposite direction. Puppies in an
unconfined area should always remain tied to a long leash or line until they
will come reliably.  Puppies should never be allowed off leash UNLESS they
are in a confined area, and even in a confined area you don’t want to chase
a puppy that is refusing to come.  So what is to be done when your puppy
bolts?  The first steps are actually taken BEFORE this stage arrives.  Play
games where you call the puppy repeatedly, and treat when she comes.  
This can even be done in the house, with people stationed far apart or on
different floors, taking turns calling the pup and treating.  And work hard on
the ‘Sit’ command, spontaneously having the pup sit at unexpected times,
then treating.  Many times a pup that will not come when called will sit
when commanded, and you can walk up and clip on the leash.

What should I do in this stage?
Have your puppy neutered or spayed to prepare for the next stage
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules
Keep puppy on a leash at all times, unless in a confined area
Continue to work on 'Sit' and 'Come'

Adolescence Period (5 - 18 months of age) This age range is wide,
as it sometimes occurs early in small dogs and later in larger, more slow to
mature, breeds.  Behaviors related to gender usually appear at this age, with
males beginning to lift their legs and mark, and females may go into heat.
Males, with their interest in determining territory and finding a mate, may
become very unruly.  Females may become pregnant.  For these reasons it
is VERY important your pup be desexed before this stage begins.  Smaller
breeds mature physically much sooner, and waiting until 6 months can be
too late. Even in dogs neutered before this stage begins, adolescence is a
challenge, and people are often surprised to find their meek little puppy has
a mind of it’s own. The trick to surviving your dog’s adolescence is to go
back to basics. Treat your pup as though she were 8-12 weeks old again!
Increase the amount of exercise and decrease the amount of freedom
provided.  Assert dominance and your place as pack leader at every
opportunity.  Even with it’s challenges, this stage can be amusing and fun.  
Dogs of this age are full of energy and puppy exuberance.  Along with
increasing the amount of exercise your pup gets, challenging him mentally
with new games and new training can be satisfying for both of you, and is a
good way to channel that energy.  Most of all, remember that all dogs go
through this stage, and you will get through it.  Your sweet and well-
behaved companion waits at the other end!

What should I do in this stage?
Spay or neuter your puppy if you have not already done so
Establish Dominance (see above)
Lots of exercise
Enroll in more training classes
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules, restrict freedom if necessary
Teach new games and provide interesting toys to challenge your pup
mentally

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 months of age) This fear
imprint period, as with the first one, overlaps with another stage.  This
period is less distinct and does not occur recognizably in all dogs.  But if it
happens in yours you will know it!  It is almost looks like shyness, where a
dog that formerly would investigate new situations becomes fearful of
them.  The best response is to be patient, but not reassure or force him.  
Forcing will scare him and reassuring him may give him the idea there is
really something to be afraid of!  Simply introducing him to the situation
and rewarding and treating when he does explore is the best option.

What should I do in this stage?
Continue to expose her to new situations.
Respond to fearfulness in a cheerful and matter-of-fact way,
with                      treats and  play


Mature Adulthood (1 - 4 years of age) Again, this may occur earlier
in smaller breeds, later in larger breeds.  As your dog reaches maturity, he
may become more assertive and confident.  She may begin defending
territory by barking at strangers or barking when someone comes to the
door.  You need to be consistent and clear in defining where this behavior is
appropriate and where it is not.  For example, you may want her to bark
when someone enters your property, but not at a stranger that walks by you
on the street.  Teach him that someone you invite into your home is
acceptable by establishing a routine of allowing him a few barks, then
requiring him to stop barking after your guest enters.  

The same is true of interactions with other dogs.  Begin by having him meet
one, or at most two, dogs at a time, and praise him when his behavior is
friendly and appropriate.  Gradually move on to busier venues such as dog
parks.  It is important to be aware that adults of the same sex, even when
neutered, will attempt to establish dominance.  As long as it is done
playfully, it is appropriate.  But you will need to become aware of signs that
it is becoming aggressive.  Aggressive postures include a very stiff-legged
walk, up on their toes, tail wags that are very short and brisk, and a facial
expression that is intense, usually with the head lowered.  These are usually
seen as the dogs circle one another.  Play should be halted if these signs are
evident, as a fight may be imminent.  Be sure to watch the other dogs for
these signals also, as it may not be your dog that starts the fight!       

In addition to establishing dominance with other dogs, your dog may again
attempt to assert dominance over you, or over children in the family.  It is
especially important to reinforce your dog’s position at the bottom of the
pack, below you and your children.  See the ‘Seniority Classification Period’
for reminders of how to do this.

Finally, the usefulness of professional advice and input cannot be
overemphasized.  Training classes are almost always worth the time and
money!  Good dog trainers usually have a wealth of experiences to draw on,
and the time you spend working with your dog forms a bond like no other.


What should I do in this stage?
More training classes!
Begin introductions to multiple dogs with only one or two dogs at a time
Learn to recognize the behavioral signals that mean a fight may be coming
Set rules about territory and barking and stick to them
Re-establish dominance (see details above)